The Betel Nut

Many drugs that persons become addicted to leave behind a residue or mark! The cigarette is one of the more common favorites for annoyance: like the visitor who manages to burn a hole in the table cloth or leave behind a burn on the mahogany mantle piece. Alcohol often disrupts as wine is spilt on carpets and clothes, stale beer smells pervade for days ahead and bottles get smashed. But the all time favorite for stains and residue is the betel nut chewer who leaves behind him a brown and red streaked mess that hurts the eye for months if not years to come.

The Nut Itself

The Betel Nut is munched and spitted in many countries around the world. It is harvested from the Betel Nut Tree (known as the Areca Catechu Tree), a tall palm with shallow roots that looks similar to the coconut tree, except much taller and thinner. The nut grows at the top of the trunk amongst the palm leaves and is harvested using mobile cranes, agile and nimble tree climbers or on the smaller trees using long poles with knives attached to cut the bunches off. The nut itself with the husk removed in no larger than a walnut, it is solid throughout, has a marbleized grain structure and is as hard as a knot in a piece of hard wood.

What betel chewers put in their mouths is primarily areca nut, sometimes wrapped in betel leaf, with mineral lime usually added as a catalyst. These three ingredients are often supplemented by additions of spices, candy, or tobacco, but cosmetics apart it's the nut-leaf-lime mixture that delivers the high.

The nut contains a substance called Arecoline which is a mild stimulant that affects the central nervous system. This alkaloid substance is said to improve learning and memory as well as to counteract intestinal parasites.

In fact many an enthusiast goes further than just saying that the nut is a mild stimulant. Readings and material on the matter are few but from what can be gathered in Western Press the effects on the body from the nut are all positive. In a shortened summary of what has been said about the nut:

Enthusiasts recognize three delightful aspects: the exhilarating lift, the mysterious flavor and the cleansing and compelling salivation. It imparts the sensation of well-being, of good humor and excitation. The consciousness ofcourse remains unimpaired and the capacity for work remains unchanged. A feeling of energy results, it appeases hunger and assuages pain. Others have been heard to say that it makes the chest broader, inhalations deeper, the back straighter, and an almost electric invigoration seems to run through the bones. It gives a good, positive and healthful sensation.

Now having seen and read all of the above it is important to read further before falling victim to such propaganda. Yes, these sensations may occur in one form or another and to differing degrees but the side-effects of any drug (the betel nut being no exception) are enormous and more far-reaching than the above. In all of the literature available on the subject it seems that the above "good points" are placed as a higher priority than the "bad side". Read all of this article for a more positive and honest, on-the-spot and "as seen" approach to the subject of the betel nut and then make an opinion as to its value in life.

Betel nut chewers (or suckers as the primary action is to suck and soak the betel nut in the mouth like a boiled sweat or tobacco) are primarily found in Asia and the Pacific Islands. It is more common than cigarette smoking in some countries, like Indonesia and Thailand, especially amongst the older population who do not care so much for good looks and happy smiles. Regular use of this nutty stimulant stains the mouth, tongue, gums and teeth a deep red color. Excessive use causes inebriation and dizziness. Long term use damages the teeth and soft tissue of the mouth. The nut also produces excess saliva and tears: thus the need for chewers to keep on ejecting such from their mouths at the same time as wiping their eyes.

A taxi rank in Taiwan can immediately be spotted without there being any taxis or signs present. The street and pavement around a rank will be literally dyed the distinctive deep red color of the remains of the betel Nut chewers as they eject the unwanted spittle and waste from their mouths. The area around the rank will be so full of this spittle that not a sign of gray color or tarmac will shine through. Further away from the rank the red marks will thin out and almost disappear as streets are crossed.

Mopeds and motorbikes are equally as common in Asian countries as are betel nut suckers. And drivers of mopeds that chew betel nut, once into the intoxicated and dizzy stage can be a danger to all on the road. They are very easy to spot as they tend to all follow a similar style of driving. Hunched over the handlebars they operate the speed of travel at either maximum or stop. They tend to grow large and important in their own minds and their driving reflects this as they weave dangerously and fast around corners, past and over crossings and through red lights at will. When stopped they jump around on their seat, oblivious to the world around them but agitated and nervous and dangerous. The most important thing to be aware of when faced with such a driver is to not be downwind of him, not because of the potent and distinctive smell of the betel nut but just incase he decides to eject his current wad of waste into the atmosphere. This will be done without thought or consideration for those behind and he will do this at any time that he decides that it is necessary: speeding through a tunnel, prior to zooming through a red light, stopped at a traffic light or in the car park.

Generally a long term user of the betel nut will be quite a frightening character to tourists and visitors to the country. Should the users grin at a tourist or person of light heart; the unaware will probably step back in fright and run away at breakneck speed. A disgusting sight of enlarged red gums and at best a solitary black and red tooth will be sent forth along with a heavy and pungent smell (of the nut and rotting gums). Hands and fingers will be gnarled and yellow, the eyes will invariably be bloodshot, piercing and filled with tears and the scary grin will usually be followed by the all-typical ejection of red spittle onto the pavement at the tourist's feet.

Taxi-drivers themselves are a cause for concern should they be sucking furiously away on the nut. The above intoxication can cause them to drive the taxi erratically and fast along highways and roads. But far more dangerously is the driver who has been working all night, having existed in a heightened state through his nuts. It can be hard to pinpoint when the effects of the betel nut kick-in or out and so drivers are typically totally unaware of their current state of mind. Having existed throughout the night in bouncing form the body tries to return to normal and sleep tries to kick-in. The driver happy in his existence starts to nod off whilst doing 70Km/hr along a busy thoroughfare or stopped at a traffic light and there is nothing in the world that will prevent him falling into a deep sleep.

Often to combat this morning sleepy feeling drivers start to take other drugs, some mild in nature like energy drinks and caffeine others more serious like another large bag of betel nuts. And in-time they will take other drugs to help them fall asleep as without such they are invariably wide-awake and high as a kite when sleep time comes.

Should a taxi-driver come screaming round a corner to halt at your feet, and should he open his door a spit onto the pavement at your feet it would be wise to wait for another cab. Should the driver have to be woken up to get his attention then it would be best to get another cab at the first opportunity. In either case the driver will be a danger to anybody around him.

In Asian and Pacific countries the selling of the betel nut is a massive business with many farmers, sellers and young girls relying on the selling of this product for their livelihood.

In Taiwan the industry is so much part of the culture that despite government attempts to combat its growth it remains a scourge of the country. Along all of the major highways, along roads and lanes leading into and out of all towns and villages little glass booths abound: all in the same style and all selling the nut. These booths exist to entice drivers and suckers to buy from them using a luring mixture of promise and future.

A Betel Nut Seller in her Stand
Photo Copyright © Ieuan Dolby, 2006

Young girls dressed in skimpy and sexy clothes stand alluringly with large smiles and body language, attracting drivers as they motor along. A typical betel nut stand owner will have many stalls to his name, many girls on his staff and a support system that extends from perfumes and make-up to a whole wardrobe of outfits for the girls to wear. A typical salary for a girl at a betel nut stand is 40,000NT dollars per month (666 UK pounds), a high salary and an attractive one. They are also provided with clothes ranging from high- heeled shoes, to mini skirts, lace and sexy underwear.

Mr Chin who runs a series of betel nut glass booths is very serious about his business and as he himself explains "I know that the girls are the key to my business so I treat them well". He went further to explain that "if the girls wear clothes that they do not like they feel unhappy and are less motivated: this is bad for my business".

It is a woman's world inside of the glass cages, the small counters are covered with cosmetics, Japanese eye-shadow cases, shiny colored lipsticks and mascara. On the side are small lockers filled with skimpy costumes and footwear - all so small as to not take up much space in the cramped booths.

For the serious stall owners like Mr Chin it is a business and he will protect his young girls seriously. Others girls do not have such high standards or protection and they often find themselves under abuse or attacked by intoxicated drivers who see in the girls more than the betel nut itself. These girls become sex objects with buyers often returning to the same stalls simply to get another look at the long legs, a peek at the loose breasts as they are thrust through the car windows or a squeeze of a nearly bare bottom clad in little more than an inch of cotton.

Girls are often followed; some are raped and abused by sex-mad drivers. Other girls freely give themselves (for a price) to drivers who are overcome with lust and many more just tease and entice passers-by with unspoken promise of more to come.

Whichever way this mass business is looked at it is a cause for concern to the higher classes, to the wives of betel nut chewers and to the basic moral fabric of the society. In some cases these girls are called prostitutes as they simply use their bodies to entice men. Whether the end result is a bag of betel nut, a quick release for a driver en-route as he remains in his driver's seat or full blown affair behind the stand, the female body is being used to earn money in one form or another.

Mr Chin, who was high on betel nut at the time, denies that anything bad may happen at his stalls and he told us this: "for customers that think they can take advantage, they might just find themselves beaten up". He went on to say that, "we make them apologize and they must give the girls a considerable sum of money in a red envelope". But Mr Chin and his protection racket is an exception in a very cut throat business that extends island-wide.

The Betel Nut girl in action
Photo Copyright © Ieuan Dolby, 2006

The girls range in age from the very young at 16 yrs old to maybe 25yrs. After this they are no longer deemed enticing enough for the sex-mad drivers. They work long hours, they increase their height through the wearing of 18cm heels and they come from a variety of backgrounds. Some use the money earned to finance study, others to feed families, some to finance the buying of expensive clothes to keep in fashion and many more because they simply have no other job to go to. But for whatever reason they end up in this occupation it is not a moral or accepted one when under world scrutiny.

It has so far proved to be too big a business to stop. Thousands of girls rely on the money earned, stall owners rely on the trade made by the girls, farmers rely on the girls to sell their products and sexy-clothes manufacturers need the girls/bosses to buy them. Angel, owner and designer of Angels Spicy Chicks Costume Workshop said; "on average I stop at around 5 to 10 betel nut stands a day, showing samples to the owners. She is an exclusive designer of costumes specifically targeted at betel nut girls. She herself does not chew betel nut and she regards it as a disgusting habit!

Many politicians have recently decided to crack down on the trend. In addition to deriding users for constantly spitting the reddish liquid on city streets and insisting that the roadside girls are bad for the country's image, they and other 'reformers' have undertaken a variety of tactics to deal with the explosion of Betel Nut Girls island-wide. However, after harassing and arresting girls for indecent exposure or even prostitution, the lawmakers have had their hands tied by the powerful farm lobby of betel nut growers who have thus far made sure that no lawmaker outlaws the practice entirely.

The Farmers

A typical betel nut tree farm
Photo Copyright © Ieuan Dolby, 2006

Betel Nut trees prefer a warm climate. They are easy to grow and require little maintenance and care for many years ahead. No crop is more profitable than betel nut. It costs just a few cents to plant a betel palm, but a hectare can generate about US$120 a day," said Chang. After spraying the area with herbicide and fertilizing the palms, farmers just have to wait five years for the trees to mature. Then they can sit back and enjoy regular twice-yearly harvests for the next 40 years.

The Betel Nut Industry is a 100 Billion NT Dollar (20 Million UK pounds) a year business. Nearly three million serious consumers of betel nut are addicted, and because the business is a profitable one most of the farmers are influential and wealthy. This is not an easy culture to break, it is not one that the government has not taken on seriously and certainly not when faced with a very powerful farming lobby that calls many shots back at the houses of parliament. But modern times and attitudes are catching up fast and with Taiwan's desperation to enter the world stage on equal footing more attention is being placed on the reduction, removal or isolation of this Industry.

A further need to rid the Island of these large plantations of betel palms is not to rid the streets of betel nut girls but to halt environmental erosion. Betel trees are commonly planted on hill sides. Large swathes of forest and vegetation are cut away on the slopes and replaced with betel nut trees. These trees have extremely shallow roots and in-short cause serious mudslides to occur during typhoons and earthquakes.

Hohsing Village in central Taiwan's Nantou County has been the unfortunate victim of several natural disasters. First, there was the Sept. 21 earthquake in 1999. This was followed by typhoons Toraji and Nari.in 2001 which caused mudslides and rockslides and pretty much buried the whole village. If the slopes above had been covered in deep rooted trees and vegetation loss of life would not have occurred, houses would not have been destroyed and livelihoods would not have been lost.

As village dwellers saw terrifying mudslides envelope their homes, they understood all too well that the betel-nut plantations covering the mountainsides had caused serious environmental damage. The village used to be one of Taiwan's major betel-nut growing areas: but today with government initiated programs to develop organic agriculture and to reforest the area, betel nuts and mudslides are but a distant memory.

This success story though has only been achieved through ultimate disaster and through loss of life. Elsewhere around the Island of Taiwan the betel nut business proliferates and still large areas of forest are being cut down to facilitate the growing of betel nut palms. The government has initiated a six-year plan to put an end to soil erosion caused by hillside planting. And this involves the education of the farmers involved and cash gifts should they stop what they are doing. But by simply looking at the 530,000NT Dollars (9,000 UK Pounds) on offer as an incentive to these farmers (over a 20yr period) it is quite obvious that no farmer would blink an eye with projected millions in revenue being received from his betel nut trees.

Aside from serious soil erosion and environmental damage the current quantity of betel nut trees Island wide consumes six billion Tonnes of water every year. This is extremely serious when faced with the water shortages that are ever present throughout Taiwan. This though seems to receive little shrift from a confused and lobbied government and it would be safe to say that the betel nut farmers have won the battle for now and will probably still be reaping in the benefits of "suckers" for years to come.

Extra Information

The nut can be bought legally in the UK. The Sucking of Betel nut causes mouth cancer and is one of the top ten causes of death in Asia, between murder and suicide.